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| Brushes | Glazes | Firing |
Q: My instructor keeps telling me to throw away those little protective plastic covers that come with my brushes, since they might trap moisture in the brush and cause fungus or mold growth. I live in a desert climate, so we don't have to worry about mold and fungus. Can I use those plastic protectors on my liners, at least, to prevent the bristles from being bent? If not, how do I protect those bristles?
A: The plastic cover still needs to go--when the cover is placed on the brush (most likely wet), you establish a mini climate perfect for fungus that will destroy the contact point between the bristles and the ferrule. If you're worried about maintaining brush bristles, after you wash out the brush, rub some liquid soap into the bristles and ferrule, and "train" the bristles into the shape you'd like to keep the bristles. Just remember to rinse the brush well before you use it.
Q: I have a solid blue glaze I like, but I'd like to get a speckled appearance. Can I add something to the glaze to get speckles?
A: For many glazes, you can add finely milled Manganese (available from ceramic suppliers) to most glazes to get speckling. As with any glaze modifications, make test samples before using the modified glaze on a planned Mother's Day gift.
Q: I'm mixing up dry Laguna glazes and slaking them. Several sources mention adding bentonite to the glaze but I seem to recall that you don't do this. Can you straighten me out?
A: No, I don't use bentonite, especially with Laguna glazes. I don't use bentonite because I've never had a problem with most commercial glazes' remaining suspended. Most commercial glaze recipes are designed with proper suspension in mind. I typically don't use bentonite in the glazes I mix from scratch due to the way I use them. However, some glaze recipes you may find in books or on the internet will recommend amounts of bentonite for proper suspension.
Q: What is a reduction atmosphere, and can I create one in my electric kiln?
A: A reduction atmosphere is one in which the amount of oxygen has been reduced significantly. Electric kilns typically have an oxidation atmosphere (one in which there is an abundance of oxygen present) to guarantee successful firing of clays and glazes designed with an oxidation atmosphere in mind. Creating a reduction atmosphere in an electric kiln is highly dangerous, and will damage the kiln elements.
Q: Can I use low fire earthenware products on stoneware?
A: Yes! Please be aware, though, that the product may react in a completely different way on high-fired stoneware than it does on earthenware. Pure color products, such as mason stains and related products, tend to be stable across a wide range of temperatures for many colors. Clay based products, such as slips, may also be relatively stable, though higher temperature stoneware firings may glassify the slip. Glaze products are more variable, as they are designed to mature within specific heat ranges. The best way to check out what happens is to make some stoneware test tiles, and experiment with the product on the tiles.
Q: I've been told by a shop owner that I always have to fire EZ Strokes before glazing, even if I apply to bisque. I've been told by some instructors that I don't have to. Who is right? Do I have to worry about the color moving under the glaze? Does the type of glaze matter (clear, satin, dipping)?
A: To determine who is right, you need to decide how intense you want your EZ Stroke to look. Firing the EZ Strokes again (to cone 04) will guarantee the most intensity. If you want to save a firing, your EZ Strokes will maintain their color, but have a much softer appearance. When applying glaze with a brush to unfired EZ Strokes, be careful not to scrub the glaze--repeated brushing over the EZ Strokes will result in moving the color. Once the glaze is in place, you have no need to worry about color movement, even during the firing. Glaze type doesn't matter.
Q: Can I speed the drying process of stoneware? I've been temped to put it on top of the kiln or someplace warm to hurry the process up, since I'm not known for my patience.
A: Yes, you can speed up drying the stoneware, but you need to be careful how warm the top of your kiln is. (I wouldn't put a really wet piece on top of a kiln that's on high.) Thrown pieces take speed drying fairly well. You must be more careful with hand built pieces.
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